Walmart and unspun team on 3D fabric weaving technology to reduce waste and boost US manufacturing

Walmart has announced a pilot project with unspun, a fashion tech company using 3D weaving technology, a collaboration that, if successful, could help reduce the environmental impact of garment production, offer a more sustainable process for meeting apparel demand and support the companies’ commitment to shift more textile manufacturing back to the US.

Out of its micro factory in Oakland, California, unspun’s technology aims to more quickly and efficiently transform yarn into garments.

The pilot project addresses concerns about waste in the apparel industry driven primarily by fabric loss from traditional flat weaving, cutting and garment assembly, and from discarded extra inventory built to meet growing consumer demand and fashion trends.

These issues, combined with the emissions generated from transporting garments and fabrics supplied offshore, have created demand for more sustainable apparel manufacturing supply chain solutions.

“We are laser focused on bringing innovation to our supply chain to better serve our customers and solve industry challenges, and unspun has the potential to do just that,” says Andrea Albright, Executive Vice President, Sourcing, Walmart.

“The technology we are piloting with unspun has the potential to unlock more skilled job creation in the US, meet consumer demand for locally made garments and deliver on our commitment for greater transparency and sustainability in our apparel supply chain.”

In the pilot project, the two companies will explore how unspun’s 3D weaving machines can be used to make workwear style pants under a Walmart house brand. With 3D weaving, yarn is spun directly into completed garments.

Traditionally, yarn is woven into one dimensional fabrics, which are then cut and assembled into garments – creating waste and taking significant time and multiple manufacturing steps.

The 3D weaving process is different from commonly known 3D printing, which creates a physical object from a digital design by laying down thin layers of liquid or powdered plastic, metal or cement.

The aim is to deepen the collaboration into later phases should the pilot prove successful. unspun, in collaboration with a manufacturing partner, hopes to ultimately deploy additional microsites around the US. for on- and near-shored manufacturing, with locations to be determined.

It has an ambition to have 350 machines in the US by 2030.

“The pressing need to address ongoing climate change, reduce carbonisation and drive to more transparent and localised apparel manufacturing practices is at the heart of our mission,” says Beth Esponnette, Co-founder at unspun.

“We have been running low-volume production of commercial products at our first micro factory with proven third-party life cycle assessments to back the impact of this new type of production.”

“Now, together with Walmart, we see an enormous opportunity to take our innovations to scale, with the potential to disrupt the garment manufacturing industry, bring jobs to the USA and drastically reduce waste in apparel.”

"unspun's technology aims to be the fastest, highest quality and most economical way to make woven garments period. Innovative industry leaders like Walmart are beginning to see the future potential impact, and we expect there to be continued interest as the unspun team builds the future of manufacturing," says Shuo Yang, Lowercarbon Capital.