RTIH’s Secret Shopper: London’s Oxford Street gets a retail reset as big hitter Ikea arrives and old fave HMV returns

It’s been a while since London’s Oxford Street was somewhere you’d genuinely recommend for a day out shopping.

A decade ago, the UK’s most famous high street looked like it was in retail rehab: tired, overcrowded, and frankly, a bit of a mess. The big name exits, HMV, Topshop, and others, left gaping holes in the landscape, while rows of American candy stores mysteriously multiplied overnight. Shops supposedly selling £20 jellybeans were everywhere, which definitely didn’t raise any red flags whatsoever.

And yet, here we are in 2025, with a very different story to tell.

A retail reset with serious muscle

On a recent visit, I was genuinely shocked at how much Oxford Street has improved. It’s as if someone hit refresh, and finally cleared out all the pop-up sugar shops. There’s still the occasional tourist beefeater window display lurking around the edges, but for the most part, things are looking up. Way up.

Let’s start with the heavy hitters. The return of HMV is a bit of a nostalgic victory. Not only is the new flagship a sleek space with vinyl, collectibles, and live event potential, but it also signals a shift back toward experience-led retail.

Then there’s Ikea, which caused a stir when it confirmed a central London branch. Positioned in the former Topshop flagship, it’s not your average flat-pack frenzy, it’s urban, compact, and surprisingly curated.

Snazzy flat screens feature stylish people talking up Scandi design choices, giving the space an aspirational, modern feel. Even better? They’ll deliver your purchases the next day, ideal if you don’t fancy lugging home a new set of crockery on the Central line. Yes, you still can’t leave without buying a pack of tealights, but somehow it feels right at home on Oxford Street.

Abercrombie & Fitch is back in a big way, no longer the dark, cologne drenched cave of your 2010 teenage years. The new store is fresh, well lit, and filled with elevated basics that scream "quiet luxury on a budget."

And then there’s lululemon. Yes, there’s a lululemon store on Oxford Street - smaller, but still stocked with your buttery soft legging essentials. But the real gem is just around the corner on Regent Street, where you’ll find their massive new flagship (reviewed in another Secret Shopper entry). Both stores offer that signature lululemon service - attentive, informed, and genuinely warm. During our visit, multiple staff members offered help without hovering, which is a fine balance to strike.

Bath & Body Works brings the scents

If you’re a fan of Bath & Body Works, this location is a must. It's the biggest UK store we've visited, and arguably the best. From signature candles to seasonal body sprays, the product range is vast and the layout is easy to browse. The real highlight? The customer service. Multiple team members checked in, offered tailored advice, and were just generally delightful. With a new Lakeside store due to open in July, Oxford Street’s branch might soon face stiff competition, but for now, it’s top-tier.

New energy, same postcode

Walking down Oxford Street today, you’re far more likely to find brands you actually want to shop at. Zara and Uniqlo both have impressive multiple multi-level stores, with slick layouts and genuinely decent service. Primark is still there, of course, massive, busy, and oddly comforting if you know what you’re getting yourself into.

Alongside the big players, Oxford Street is packed with a wide selection of stylish, mid-range, and high-end options. There’s All Saints, Dune, Dyson, Flannels, Kurt Geiger, Lush, New Balance, POP MART, Reiss, Pull and Bear, and Rituals, plus more we didn’t have time to browse. According to the official Oxford Street website, there are over 113 stores listed, and honestly, very few feel like filler. This is a street with serious retail depth.

Of course, it wouldn’t be Oxford Street without the department store heavyweights. Selfridges, John Lewis, and M&S all anchor the area and offer excellent service and variety. The vibe? It’s a lot more polished. There are digital screens integrated into window displays and app linked experiences inside stores.

One of the more noticeable upgrades across Oxford Street’s shops is the widespread use of self-service checkouts. Whether you’re grabbing basics from Primark or shopping skincare at Boots, the convenience of tap and go tills is now fairly standard. It's another sign that Oxford Street has caught up with what modern shoppers want - speed, flexibility, and minimal queues.

A note on the candy shops (and where they went)

Now, we can’t talk about Oxford Street’s glow up without acknowledging the bizarre reign of the American sweet shops. No one really knows why we needed 37 different places selling knockoff American candy, but for a while, it felt like they were the only businesses still standing.

In fairness, Westminster Council eventually cracked down on the chaos, launching investigations into illicit activity, unpaid business rates, and, you guessed it, money laundering allegations. Slowly but surely, those neon monstrosities began to disappear, making way for retailers people actually want to see.

Experience is the new retail currency

One thing that really stood out on my visit was the sheer number of experiential retail setups. Many of the flagship stores now include beauty stations, personalisation booths, or events happening in-store. Brands are waking up to the idea that if you want customers to show up in person, the experience needs to feel worth it; you can’t simply coast on past glories.

Still not perfect, but finally fun again

Of course, not everything is perfect. There are still a few naff tourist shops hanging around, filled with Union Jack hoodies and rubber phone cases. But they’re no longer dominating the landscape. The transformation is clear and, dare we say, long overdue.

What once felt tired and overrun now feels like a curated destination. Oxford Street today balances heritage with modernity, global brands with emerging trends, and value with experience.

The big test will be longevity. Can these stores survive in what’s still a challenging retail climate? Will the street attract even more of the brands that Gen Z and Millennials want to shop at? Based on what I’ve seen, the answer might just be yes.

I left Oxford Street with a real sense of optimism, boosted by the announcement of pedestrianisation plans. Not something I’ve felt about the place in years, frankly. There’s finally a mix of old favorites and new contenders. There's innovation, investment, and, dare I say, ambition in the air.

Is it back to being the beating heart of London retail? Maybe not quite yet. But it’s well on the way.